Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Reisses 2023 Robert-Denogent | Burgundy

The Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Reisses from Domaine Robert-Denogent holds a special place in the wine estate’s lineup: a cuvée crafted from old Chardonnay vines that tell the story of a terroir unique to Burgundy. In Fuissé, in the heart of the Mâconnais region, the Les Reisses plot spans 0.50 hectares, with vines over 60 years old grown on deep clay soil. This distinctive terroir, characterized by alternating daytime warmth and nighttime coolness, gives the grapes a remarkable balance of ripeness for a Pouilly-Fuissé. The vineyard is cultivated using organic methods, with an ongoing transition to biodynamics, and the winemaking approach is deliberately low-intervention. Hand harvest, fermentation with native yeasts without oenological additives, and ageing for at least two years in oak barrels on fine lees: the meticulous care devoted to this cuvée aims to preserve the natural expression of the Pouilly-Fuissé terroirs.

Philippe Mischler, sommelier at Mundovin: The Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Reisses from Domaine Robert Denogent ranks among the finest Pouilly-Fuissé wines. This wine combines power and elegance, aromatic density and mineral tension, while offering good ageing potential for those willing to be patient. Few white wines so successfully blend finesse and breadth with an acidic structure that allows them to stand the test of time.

The nose is complex and captivating, initially revealing an abundance of white flowers, juicy yellow-fleshed fruits, and very ripe citrus. As it opens up, the bouquet deepens with richer, more indulgent nuances: toasted almond, roasted hazelnut, acacia honey, and brioche bread reflect the perfectly integrated barrel ageing.

On the palate, the body of the fully ripe Chardonnay delivers a sense of richness without excessive opulence, with an enveloping attack perfectly balanced by invigorating acidity. Flavors of ripe fruit, candied citrus, fresh butter, and nuts offer remarkable depth and fullness on the palate. The wine is full-bodied and structured, built for extended aging. Its creamy texture blends with a slightly chalky minerality, leading to a finish marked by briny freshness, which adds tension and prolongs the tasting experience with a lovely, mouth-watering finish.