Bourgogne Aligoté Clos des Bruyères 2023 | Domaine de la Sarazinière
The Burgundy Aligoté Clos des Bruyères 2023 is a unique offering from Domaine de la Sarazinière: as the wine estate’s sole expression ofAligoté, it breaks free from the conventions of the Mâconnais region to claim the regional Burgundy appellation .
In the late 1990s, Philippe Trébignaud took a gamble by replanting this grape variety on a precisely defined plot in the heart of the Mâconnais region, in Bussières, where it had largely disappeared despite its deep historical roots. Today, his son, Guillaume Trébignaud—representing the fourth generation—holds the reins of the wine estate, with a continuity that is anything but trivial: it illustrates the strength of the connection to the land, an intimate knowledge of the plots, and patience in winemaking decisions.
Terroir and Grape Variety
Spanning just 0.70 hectares, the soil of Clos des Bruyères is also unique due to its acidity and high limestone content, which set it apart from the alkaline clay-limestone soils of the wine estate’s other plots. These distinctive conditions providethe Aligoté with a particularly favorable environment for expressing its exuberant aromatics and lively character.
Aligoté is in its element here. Often relegated to the status of a secondary grape variety in Burgundy, it reveals a tension and minerality on limestone that few other white grape varieties can match. This plot provides it with a setting that truly suits it.
Viticulture and Winemaking
The wine estate is managed under certified organic farming practices. The grapes are harvested by hand, plot by plot. Winemaking follows a philosophy of minimal intervention: spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, and ageing in stainless steel tanks to preserve the vintage’s freshness and aromatic integrity. No artifice—Guillaume Trébignaud lets the terroir speak freely.
Burgundy Aligoté Clos des Bruyères 2023 | Domaine de la Sarazinière: The Sommelier’s Review
Philippe Mischler, sommelier at Mundovin Aligoté suffers from an unfair reputation. People imagine it to be acidic, short, and utilitarian. The Clos des Bruyères disproves this prejudice with disarming clarity. The limestone plot, the winemaking process without additives, and the wine estate’s strict organic practices: every element comes together to create a taut, crisp wine with genuine freshness. It is one of the most compelling expressions of Aligoté in the Mâconnais: a wine of terroir, not of grape variety. Serve it between 10 and 12°C, without decanting. It has ageing potential of up to five years, but the 2023 vintage’s straightforward character invites you to open it right away.
The Nose
The nose opens with crisp, precise notes of lemon zest and green pear. White flowers slip in discreetly. In the background, hints of damp limestone and sea salt lend the profile a mineral depth unexpected for such a young wine.
Palate
On the palate, the attack is lively, almost briny. The texture, slightly refined by aging on lees, brings a measured roundness without feeling heavy. The acidity provides a firm structure to the whole. The finish lingers with persistent mineral notes. The balance is there—straightforward and uncompromising.
Bourgogne Aligoté: An Appellation Worth Rediscovering
The Bourgogne Aligoté AOP appellation covers the entire Burgundy wine region. It is dedicated toAligoté, the region’s historic white grape variety, which was long overshadowed by Chardonnay. Burgundy’s limestone soils and temperate climate naturally lend it freshness and minerality. The appellation produces dry white wines, often lively, whose character depends closely on the quality of the terroirs and the care taken in cultivation. Clos des Bruyères exemplifies what the appellation can offer when taken seriously. With a specific plot, organic cultivation, and winemaking without additives, this wine far exceeds the definition of a standard Aligoté from a wine merchant or cooperative. It embodies a demanding vision of the grape variety, rooted in a specific location within the Mâconnais region.
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