- RVF | 98
Wine reviews
- Revue des Vins de France 98 / 100
Magnum Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2022 Le Vieux Donjon | Rhône
Classic and classy!
The delight of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a magnum! Clos des Papes presents an organic Châteauneuf-du-Pape, deeply rooted in its terroir of rounded pebbles and sand. Its silky tannins and freshness promise remarkable aging potential. An essential reference from the southern Rhône Valley, produced in very limited quantities for this vintage.
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Technical Specifications
Capacity
150cl
Vintage
2024
Grape variety(ies)
Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Counoise, Vaccarèse, Muscardin
Name
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Winemaking
Hand-harvested grapes, partially destemmed; fermentation with native yeasts
Livestock farming
12 to 15 months in old casks
Philosophy and Style
Type of wine
Red
Crop type
Certified organic
Style
Layered and harmonious
Type of soil
Worn pebbles, sand, sandstone
Tasting
Food Recommendations
Aged Salers beef tenderloin, potato mille-feuille with Melanosporum truffles, hay-smoked beef jus
Serving Suggestions
17°C; decant for 3 to 4 hours when young
High point
2034-2049
The 2024 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Clos des Papes is part of a long tradition of ambition. For several generations, the Avril family has managed a vineyard divided into some twenty parcels, spread throughout the appellation. Following in his father’s footsteps, Paul-Vincent Avril refines each vintage to achieve greater sophistication and clarity even in its youth. The 2024 is a wine built for aging, born from a vintage with very low yields—around 16 to 17 hl/ha—which have crafted a true nectar.
The Clos des Papes vineyard rests on a mosaic of soils: rounded pebbles, sand, and sandstone, each contributing to the balance of the blend. This diversity of terroirs, spread throughout theChâteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, yields an aromatic palette and complexity that few estates can claim. The 2024 blend stands out for its unusually high proportion of Mourvèdre (45%), on par with Grenache (45%), as fruit drop reduced yields of the latter. Syrah rounds out the blend at about 8%, supported by rarer grape varieties such as Counoise, Vaccarèse, and Muscardin, which contribute to the estate’s complex signature. This high proportion of Mourvèdre gives the 2024 a more pronounced structure and a distinctive aromatic profile compared to previous vintages, which were generally dominated by Grenache.
The estate is certified organic. The grapes are harvested by hand, partially destemmed, and fermentation takes place using only the indigenous yeasts present on the grapes. Le Clos des Papes cultivates a style characterized by depth and elegance, favoring traditional and spontaneous winemaking methods without excessive extraction. Aging lasts 12 to 15 months in old casks, with no new wood, to preserve the pure expression of the terroirs. The wine is unfiltered, a practice rooted in the estate’s history since 1988.
Philippe Mischler, sommelier at Mundovin
The Clos des Papes red ranks among the most accomplished wines of the southern Rhône Valley. Its greatness lies not only in its power but also in its ability to age with impressive consistency. The 2024 vintage presents a slightly different profile from previous years: the dominance of Mourvèdre gives it a tighter structure and a more taut freshness. It is a wine that is appealing in its youth after a long decanting, but that fully blossoms after about ten years and reaches peak complexity beyond twenty years. With its peak expected between 2034 and 2049, patience and a cool cellar will be its best allies.
The Nose
The nose opens with deep aromas of black plum and licorice, carried by a very pronounced aromatic vitality. Mild spices, a hint of garrigue, and a slight blood-like note—the signature of Mourvèdre— enrich the bouquet. The overall impression is dense and ripe, reflecting the vintage’s concentration.
Palate
On the palate, the attack is full and confident, with a velvety texture carried by intense fruit. Well-balanced acidity revitalizes the wine, perfectly supporting its density. The black fruits, licorice, and noble spices are enhanced by the silky, ripe texture of the tannins, which will meld seamlessly into the wine’s body in a few years. The finish lingers on black fruit and the freshness of garrigue herbs, with a length that hints at the wine’s future development.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of the most prestigious appellations in the southern Rhône Valley, located in the Vaucluse department around the village of the same name. Its varied soils—ranging from rounded pebbles to sand, sandstone, and clay—offer a range of terroirs rarely found in France. The appellation allows for up to thirteen grape varieties, making it a unique region for blending. Grenache reigns supreme here, supported by Mourvèdre, Syrah, and a constellation of lesser-known varieties.
Le Clos des Papes embodies a vision of precision and balance, in contrast to the extract-heavy and oaky styles that have at times dominated the appellation. The 2024 vintage, with its high proportion of Mourvèdre and exceptionally low yields, is a vintage of character. It represents the appellation at its most distinctive: complexity and harmony born of diversity.
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