Saumur L'Echelier 2023 Roches Neuves | Loire

Among Thierry Germain's great cuvées, Domaine des Roches Neuves ' Saumur L'Echelier is a luminous interpretation of Saumur white. Clos de l'Echelier is located on the south bank of the Loire, in a natural amphitheater protected by three-hundred-year-old walls. This exclusive site, adjacent to Clos Romans, lies on clay and limestone soil covered by a thin layer of sand, before reaching the upper Turonian tuffeau. This shallow terroir favors minerality and tension in the Chenin berries, which Thierry Germain cultivates organically and biodynamically. Selections massales planted at high density benefit from full tillage, natural grassing and horse-drawn ploughing to preserve the structure of the soil. Hand harvesting precedes a long fermentation with indigenous yeasts in barrels. Ageing for nine months on fine lees in the cool underground cellars of Domaine des Roches Neuves preserves the authentic expression of the Clos de l'Echelier terroir.

Philippe Mischler sommelier at Mundovin: Saumur blanc L'Echelier is another facet of Thierry Germain's quest to illustrate the natural tension of Loire Chenin . It features the artisanal precision of Domaine des Roches Neuves, and the winemaker's immoderate taste for clear balance and vibrant textures. The Clos Romans , with its old walls facing the Loire, acts as a sounding board. It lends the wine a mineral, luminous dimension, where time seems suspended.

On the nose, Saumur blanc L'Echelier opens with a subtle combination of freshness and concentration, growing in intensity. Aromas of citrus, white fruit and exotic fruit are followed by an abundance of white flowers and sweet spices, led by white pepper. Underneath, a chalky minerality creates a deeper, more tactile dimension that beckons tasting.

On the palate, the wine is straightforward and taut, where the fruit expresses itself fully without ever weighing it down. Notes of pear and quince compote rub shoulders with ripe lemon, carried by an energy that stretches the wine's body. The finish, with its chalky, white flower accents, prolongs the tasting with a noble minerality and salivating bitters.