Orthogneiss 2023 Domaine de L'Ecu | Loire

In the heart of the Nantes vineyards, Domaine de l'Écu 's Orthogneiss cuvée takes its name from the magmatic bedrock that has shaped its identity for decades. Claire and Frédéric Niger produce this emblematic white wine under the Vin de France label, in order to preserve their total freedom and escape the standards of the appellations. This authenticity of style allows them to make the most of their terroir, where old Melon de Bourgogne vines flourish on a southeast-facing plot of around 3 hectares. The shallow, granular soil naturally forces the fifty-year-old vines to plunge deep into the orthogneiss subsoil. A historic figure in organic and biodynamic viticulture in the Loire Valley, Domaine de l'Écu has been cultivating these vines organically since 1975 and under Demeter certification since 1998, with rigorous soil management, exclusively manual work and yields deliberately controlled to concentrate the expression of the place. To continue this natural philosophy right through to the cellar, the wine estate harvests its grapes by hand before gravity-feeding them to the winery for whole-bunch pressing. Fermentation is carried out exclusively by the indigenous yeasts present on the berries, and ageing on the lees takes place in underground concrete vats for 15 to 18 months. No fining or filtration before bottling, and very limited use of sulfur, complete this uncluttered, unvarnished winemaking process

Philippe Mischler, sommelier at Mundovin : Domaine de l'Écu 's Orthogneiss cuvée expresses the tension and depth of Melon de Bourgogne from a great metamorphic base with an intensity rarely achieved. Ageing sculpts the grapes with great elegance, while the terroir imparts a straightforward minerality and structuring salinity. The balance is remarkable, carried by a racy energy and length that will last for nearly a decade of cellaring. A major reference among the great dry white wines of the Loire!

On the nose, the complex mix of citrus and exotic fruit, white flowers and caraway seeds stands out from the aromatic standards of Loire white wines. Here, Melon de Bourgogne develops astonishing depth and relief, even taking on hints of dried fruit, toasted almond and menthol with aeration. A fine mineral and iodine framework runs through the bouquet, lending it freshness and purity.

On the palate, a supple attack gives way to a taut body that gradually builds in volume. Exotic, mineral and spicy flavors stretch across the acidic framework to a chiseled finish whose delicate bitterness evokes pink grapefruit and almond kernel.